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: INTRODUCTION : ELECTRICITY USAGE : ELECTRICITY REDUCTION : HEATING IMPROVEMENTS : WATER CONSERVATION : |
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Now that we have the chart of costs, we can go through the items and identify where the best savings can be made. Referring back to the chart on the previous page, we can work through the items on a room by room basis and decide whether or not it makes sense to upgrade in order to reduce ongoing energy costs. Let's start by looking at where most of the electricity costs are consumed, the kitchen. Kitchen Appliances - Fridge/Freezer: On our audit chart, the amount of energy consumed per month from the fridge/freezer costs almost EUR12. This can surely be bettered by obtaining a more up to date model. However, the downside is that we will never recoup the payback period on such an item because the appliance cost is high and lifespan is limited, typically 10-15 years. As an example, to purchase a new "side-by-side" fridge freezer to replace the current model would cost EUR1,200. Looking around an electrical superstore recently, I found the most efficient model's rating plate stating an energy consumption of "1.58Kwh per 24 hrs", which equates to 135 watts in operation. So we can break down the figures as:
So it really only makes sense to upgrade this appliance once it has reached
the end of its life, not before. In other cases where a smaller model fridge is
used, the figures may justify buying the most energy efficient model sooner. Lets look at the washing machine, again factoring in the payback period and energy rating. Our current machine was washing clothes on a cycle which consumed 0.6 Kilowatts per wash. It burned out recently, and we purchased a new A+ energy rated unit, costing EUR380, which has now been installed and consumes just .19 Kilowatts per wash. If we factor in the same costing method as before, we get the following results:
So again it is only sensible to upgrade this appliance once it has reached the end of its life, and certainly not before. But when selecting a new model, be sure to go for the "A+AA" or "A+AB" rating. The "A+" denotes the power consumption, followed by the washing and drying efficiency. Kitchen Appliances - Kettle: The most used "plug in" appliance seldom gets much coverage, but perhaps with the advent of the eco kettle, all this will change. The basic premise with this new kettle is is that you only release a set volume of water into the boiling chamber of the kettle, thereby reducing the amount of time the electricity is used to heat the water.
Bearing in mind that I was already careful not to boil more water than I needed in a conventional kettle, I expected the energy savings to be minute. For others, who typically overfill the kettle, the payback period will be considerably reduced. The figures I found were as follows:
Look at the cost of lighting the kitchen, it is the highest of all kitchen costs. That's to be expected, after all it is the most used room in the house and in my particular case it also has 8 down lighters. We cannot make the room "less used" in order to save on lighting, but perhaps we could see if the lighting costs could be reduced. The 8 low voltage down lighters use 8x45watts = 360watts. I found some new down lighters, shown below, which run on mains voltage, but rather than use standard GU10 mains bulbs at 50watts each, these lights operate as CFLs, or compact fluorescent lights, using only 9watts each. The light output is equivalent to a 40watt down light. There are even versions of these which can be dimmed, holding up to 4 dimmer settings. The downside to this is that they are not as "instant" a light as the original versions, and take a minute or two to get to full brightness. However, that's a small price to pay for the energy savings that can be made, which are as follows:
Note: LED lighting is yet another new technology which is available now, particularly in the form of mains GU10 style and low voltage MR16 housings. In all tests done so far the brightest output I have seen was from a single 5 or 7watt LED, which appeared to give the equivalent to about 30watts of standard light. So in my view although they promise even further energy savings, they are not yet sufficiently bright to be used as true replacements, and should be avoided until the technology improves. Lounge Lighting: We already have five low energy lights in the lounge, but there are also 3 standard 12v down lighters which, like the kitchen lights, consume way too much electricity. So the energy savings here, based on using the 9watt CFLs, work out as follows:
Lounge Appliances - TV: No savings to be made here; the current TV is a plasma model and quite up to date. As per previous page values, the wattage is not excessive given the size of screen and amount of time it is used per day. When not in use we plan to turn it off, to save on the standby costs. Lounge Appliances - Satellite Receiver: I was amazed to find that the humble satellite receiver actually consumes almost as much in standby mode as it does in the "on" mode. My energy monitor indicated that when turned "on" the receiver consumed 20watts, but when put into standby it consumed 18watts. That's hardly worth switching it off for, is it! I am unsure if this is due to the particular model of satellite receiver (Grundig), and do not want to start changing it around in case the connections on a new receiver are different. So another way to solve this would be to use a plug in timer, which physically disconnects the power to the receiver. By switching this off from 2am to 8am that would give a saving of EUR0.65 (20 x 6 x 30 x .000181) per month, making a yearly saving of EUR7.82. So we are talking very small change here. However, each change cumulatively adds up, so this may be worth doing, especially if you already have a plug in timer in the house which is not being used. Other Lighting: Down lighters are used in the bedroom, landing, bathroom and en-suite. Although they are not used that much in the bedrooms, the bathroom and en-suites will also benefit from swapping them for the low energy equivalents. Note that a down light converter is sometimes required if you need to cover a larger hole, perhaps made using older "eyeball" type down lights. These can cover various gaps from 46mm to 100mm and can then accept the GU10 bulb pictured above. In other parts of the house I also have old R50 spot lights; again these are now available in 8watt versions which can directly replace the older spot bulbs. While the initial costs of the lights are higher, at EUR13 per light, the long term savings will be worthwhile if the lights are in regular use. Our Friend Kelvin: The colour of the light that we use in our homes can vary considerably. Please be careful to choose the right light for the task. Many people find that cool white is not suitable for most areas, and I tend to agree. So when buying energy saving bulbs make sure you know what you are getting. Here's a quick guide:
Most people will prefer the look of warm white and extra warm white. Note
also that "warm white" is a bit of a misnomer, as it actually produces a base
white light. The "extra warm white" is equivalent to the colour produced by a
halogen light. Once you have made the initial savings, there are other products which may you can install in your electricity meter box which monitors, in real time, the total units of electricity in use. There are a number of products on the market now, such as Efergy, Owl and Wattson. One of the original systems, called 'Electrisave', originated in Australia, but is now manufactured for use in both Ireland and the UK. There are two main components to these systems; the first is the transmitter with sensor cable which is attached to the cable coming from the electricity meter towards the fuse box. Then the receiver/monitor, which is wireless, can be placed anywhere up to 30metres from the transmitter and this will show the householder the actual units in use. In fact it can also show Kilowatts, Amps, Co2 emission estimates, indoor temperature and humidity.
The receiver/monitor can be programmed with the current electricity tariffs
to show you the real cost to you. However, I believe that the system only
works well as an integrated approach when used with the simple plug in energy
monitor described earlier. In fact I would suggest that these ongoing monitors
are best deployed after you have first used the cheaper plug-in monitor
to check and deal with the individual appliances that are the most energy
hungry. You can then use products like the Electrisave as an ongoing monitor to
ensure that energy saving strategies are continually put into practise. Bear in
mind that the system uses 6 batteries, so if possible you really need to use
rechargeable batteries otherwise the cost of this product, at over EUR80,
coupled to ongoing battery costs every few months, will count against the
savings you can make. |
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